Photograph: Steve & Donna O'Meara/Getty/National Geographicįinally, I was looking for Halloween witches. Over the course of my stay, I was read and reread via crystals, Tarot, runes, spirit photography, tea leaves, and my palms.Ĭount Orlok’s Nightmare Gallery contains life-size wax figures of cinematic monsters.
At any of these shops, you can buy books on magic, spell ingredients and souvenirs. On Essex Street alone you’ll find Hex, Omen, The Coven’s Cottage and Crow Haven Corner – this last, the oldest Witch shop in Salem, opened in the early 1970s. You just head to one of its dozen Witch shops. Second, I was also looking for Witches (yes, capital “W”), the adherents to a reimagined religion that borrows and adapts pagan rituals, as well as inventing its own. And also half a dozen private homes where trial participants lived. I saw a house where preliminary hearings were held. There, without any of the Salem Halloween fanfare, I saw the foundation of the parsonage where the first girls claimed to be afflicted by invisible witches.
In 1692, Danvers was part of Salem, the part where the witch trials actually started. In fact, to see more genuine Salem Witch Trials sites, I had to go to neighbouring Danvers. Only in Salem could the word 'gentrify' also mean 'become less spooky' The only preserved sites in Salem are a few judges’ graves and the Witch House, an eerie black First Period house that was the home of Judge Jonathan Corwin.
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